Why Seffner Homeowners Choose Us

A mini-split system consists of an outdoor compressor unit connected to one or more indoor air handlers by refrigerant lines and electrical wiring. Unlike central AC that distributes air through ducts, each indoor unit delivers conditioned air directly into its room.

Low Refrigerant from Leaks

• Rapid Diagnosis

• Honest Assessment

• Stocked Service Vehicles

• Clear Communication

• Quality Repairs

Why Your AC Not Cooling?

Low Refrigerant from Leaks

How You’ll Know:

• AC runs constantly without reaching set temperature
• Ice formation on copper lines or indoor coil
• Hissing sounds near refrigerant connections
• Gradually worsening cooling over days or weeks

What’s Happening: Refrigerant is the lifeblood of your AC system, absorbing heat from indoor air and releasing it outside. When levels drop from leaks, your system can’t transfer heat effectively.

Typical Causes:

• Vibration-induced cracks in copper lines
• Corrosion from salt air in coastal areas
• Factory defects in coils developing leaks
• Poorly brazed connections from initial installation
• Rubbing between lines and metal edges

Our Diagnosis: We measure refrigerant pressures and temperatures, use electronic leak detectors or UV dye to locate leak points, and determine whether repair or replacement makes economic sense.

The Fix:

• Repair accessible leaks in lines or connections
• Replace leaking coils when repair isn’t feasible
• Evacuate system to remove air and moisture
• Recharge to exact manufacturer specifications
• Test for 24 hours to verify leak repair

Cost Range: $300-1,200 depending on leak location and repair complexity

Prevention: Annual maintenance catches slow leaks before complete cooling loss.

Frozen Evaporator Coil

How You’ll Know:

• Ice visible on copper lines entering your home
• Water dripping from indoor unit after system runs
• Weak airflow from vents
• AC runs but produces little or no cooling

What’s Happening: Your indoor evaporator coil becomes so cold it freezes, blocking airflow and preventing heat absorption. The ice acts as insulation, stopping cooling completely.

Typical Causes:

• Clogged air filter restricting airflow across coil
• Low refrigerant causing excessive temperature drop
• Dirty evaporator coil blocking heat transfer
• Failed blower motor reducing air movement
• Closed supply vents in too many rooms

Our Diagnosis: After thawing the coil (1-3 hours with system off), we identify what caused freezing by checking airflow, refrigerant levels, and coil cleanliness.

The Fix:

• Replace clogged filters
• Clean dirty coils
• Repair refrigerant leaks if present
• Fix blower motor issues
• Open closed vents and verify adequate return air

Cost Range: $100-800 depending on underlying cause

Prevention: Monthly filter changes, annual coil cleaning, proper vent management.

Failed Compressor

How You’ll Know:

• Outdoor unit fan runs but compressor doesn’t
• Clicking or humming from outdoor unit without starting
• Unit tries to start then immediately shuts off
• Complete absence of cooling despite system operation

What’s Happening: The compressor is your AC’s heart, pumping refrigerant through the system. When it fails, refrigerant can’t circulate and heat transfer stops completely.

Typical Causes:

• Age-related wear (compressors typically last 12-15 years in Florida)
• Electrical failure from power surges
• Overheating from dirty outdoor coil
• Liquid refrigerant returning to compressor (from improper charge)
• Manufacturing defects in early failure cases

Our Diagnosis: We test compressor electrically, measure starting capacitance, check for mechanical seizure, and verify the compressor itself has failed versus controls or wiring.

The Fix: Compressor replacement is expensive ($1,500-2,500) and often triggers replacement discussion for systems over 10 years old. For newer systems under warranty, replacement makes sense.

Cost Range: $1,500-2,500 for compressor replacement

Prevention: Regular maintenance, surge protection, keeping outdoor coils clean.

Dirty Outdoor Condenser Coil

How You’ll Know:

• Gradual cooling reduction over weeks or months
• Outdoor unit feels unusually hot to touch
• High electric bills despite normal usage
• System runs constantly in hot weather

What’s Happening: The outdoor coil must reject heat absorbed from your home. When blocked by dirt, grass clippings, cottonwood, or debris, heat transfer fails and your system can’t cool effectively.

Typical Causes:

• Years without professional coil cleaning
• Landscaping too close to outdoor unit
• Nearby grass cutting launching clippings into coil
• Cottonwood or tree debris accumulation
• Pet hair accumulation for ground-level units

Our Diagnosis: Visual inspection immediately shows extremely dirty coils. We measure temperature difference across the coil to quantify restricted heat rejection.

The Fix: Professional chemical coil cleaning removes embedded debris simple hosing can’t reach. Severe cases may require coil straightening or fin repair.

Cost Range: $150-300 for professional coil cleaning

Prevention: Keep vegetation 2-3 feet away, rinse coils monthly with garden hose, professional annual cleaning.

Thermostat Problems

How You’ll Know:

• Display shows incorrect temperature
• System doesn’t respond to temperature changes
• AC runs constantly or not at all
• Settings randomly change or reset

What’s Happening: Your thermostat controls when cooling occurs. Calibration issues, wiring problems, or internal failures prevent proper system control.

Typical Causes:

• Incorrect installation or loose wiring
• Poor thermostat location (direct sunlight, drafts, above vents)
• Dead batteries in battery-powered models
• Age-related electronic failure
• Dust or debris interfering with sensor

Our Diagnosis: We test thermostat calibration, verify wiring connections, check power delivery, and test communication with HVAC equipment.

The Fix:

• Recalibrate or replace thermostat
• Tighten or repair wiring connections
• Relocate thermostat to better location if necessary
• Replace dead batteries

Cost Range: $80-350 depending on whether repair or replacement needed

Prevention: Replace batteries annually, keep thermostats clean, verify proper installation location.

Clogged Condensate Drain

How You’ll Know:

• Water leaking from indoor unit
• AC shuts off unexpectedly
• Gurgling sounds near indoor unit
• Float switch error on thermostat

What’s Happening: While not directly causing lack of cooling, safety switches shut down your AC when drains clog to prevent water damage. The system appears to run (briefly) but won’t cool.

Typical Causes:

• Algae growth in drain line from humidity
• Dust or debris blocking drain
• Improper drain line slope allowing standing water
• Failed or clogged drain trap

Our Diagnosis: Visual inspection of drain pan and line, testing drain flow, identifying blockage location.

The Fix:

• Clear drain line using nitrogen, vacuum, or chemicals
• Treat with tablets preventing algae growth
• Verify proper drain slope
• Replace damaged drain components

Cost Range: $100-200 for drain cleaning and treatment

Prevention: Quarterly drain line flush, algae treatment tablets, annual inspection.

Blower Motor Failure

How You’ll Know:

• No air coming from vents even though AC runs
• Weak airflow throughout house
• Loud squealing or grinding from indoor unit
• AC runs but indoor fan doesn’t

What’s Happening: The blower motor circulates air across your evaporator coil and through your home. When it fails or runs slowly, cooling air doesn’t reach your rooms.

Typical Causes:

• Worn bearings from years of operation
• Capacitor failure preventing motor start
• Electrical failure in motor windings
• Overheating from restricted airflow
• Age-related wear (motors last 12-15 years typically)

Our Diagnosis: We test motor operation, measure electrical current, listen for bearing noise, and check capacitor that helps motor start.

The Fix:

• Replace failed blower motor
• Replace weak starting capacitor
• Clean dirty blower wheel improving efficiency

Cost Range: $400-700 for motor replacement

Prevention: Annual lubrication if applicable, filter changes preventing dirty wheel buildup.

Our Diagnostic Process

Step 1: Detailed Problem History

Understanding when cooling loss started, whether it was gradual or sudden, and what (if any) unusual sounds or behaviors you noticed helps narrow diagnostic focus immediately.

Step 2: Initial Visual Inspection

We examine obvious issues first—extremely dirty filters, tripped breakers, visible ice formation, failed components—to catch simple problems before extensive testing.

Step 3: Temperature Measurements

We measure air temperature entering and leaving your system. Proper “split” should be 16-22°F. Low splits indicate problems even if you feel some cooling.

Step 4: Refrigerant Testing

Using manifold gauges, we measure refrigerant pressures and temperatures at multiple system points, revealing refrigerant problems, airflow restrictions, or mechanical failures.

Step 5: Electrical Testing

We verify proper voltage, measure component amperage, test capacitors, and check all electrical controls ensuring the system receives and uses power correctly.

Step 6: Airflow Verification

We measure actual airflow throughout your system, identifying restrictions from dirty filters, blocked coils, failed blowers, or ductwork problems.

Step 7: Root Cause Identification

After comprehensive testing, we identify the specific component or condition causing cooling loss rather than treating symptoms.

Step 8: Clear Explanation and Options

You’ll understand exactly what failed, why it happened, what repair involves, and what it costs before any work begins.

Cost Expectations for Common Repairs

Simple Repairs (Same-Day Completion)

• Clogged filter replacement: $0-50
• Drain line cleaning: $100-200
• Capacitor replacement: $150-300
• Thermostat replacement: $200-350
• Contactor replacement: $150-250

Moderate Repairs (2-4 Hours)

• Coil cleaning: $150-300
• Blower motor replacement: $400-700
• Minor refrigerant leak repair and recharge: $300-600

Extensive Repairs (4-8 Hours)

• Evaporator coil replacement: $800-1,500
• Compressor replacement: $1,500-2,500
• Major refrigerant leak repair: $600-1,200

Repair vs. Replacement Considerations

Repair Makes Sense When:

• System is under 10 years old
• Repair costs less than $1,000
• Only single component failed
• Rest of system in good condition
• Regular maintenance history exists

Replacement Makes More Sense When:

• System is 12+ years old
• Repair exceeds 50% of replacement cost
• Multiple components failing
• System uses obsolete R-22 refrigerant as these are being phased out
• Frequent repairs over past 2 years
• Efficiency improvements would significantly reduce bills

We’ll provide honest guidance about whether your specific situation favors repair or replacement.

Get All Kinds of ACs Repaired and Replaced!

AC not cooling? Don’t suffer through Florida heat. Call (813) 547-2891 for same-day diagnosis and repair in Seffner.